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The time has come, the kitten is going home to you.  

This is an exciting time, one filled with moments that are often priceless....  I want to help you make this transition one that is enjoyed.     

There are several questions that need to be addressed:

bullet What has the kitten been eating?
bullet Litter and litter boxes 
bullet Have on hand 
bullet Introduction into the new home?
bulletSources for toys, etc. 
bullet When should I take the new kitten to my vet?
bullet What is this about Pet Insurance?

Sites to see! 

bullet http://www.felinevideos.vet.cornell.edu/

 

EATING:

The canned and dry food I am using is a combination of raw and Blue Buffalo canned http://www.bluebuff.com/?gclid=CL2VgLChmpwCFVRM5QodKGZ-ew     They like the flavors with chicken and turkey.  I also mix this with another canned food called Before Grain (BG)  http://www.beforegrain.com/  They have been eating this with a raw food Nature's Variety  http://www.naturesvariety.com/  the raw chicken flavor.  However, you can simply buy the canned and use that since there is an issue for many in using raw food. 

The cats and kittens free feed on the dry food.  It is out all the time for them to eat throughout the day.  Right now I am feeding Royal Canin Kitten 34 http://www.royalcanin.us/products/productdetail.aspx?ID=41  and sometimes mix that with Royal Canin Hairball.

 The canned food is given for adults in the morning only and for kittens two to three times a day depending on their eating habits.   There are other brands of a more "raw" diet available at stores now.  I  Any changes made in the diet should be done gradually. 

Any change in the kitten’s diet should be done gradually. Mix in 90% regular food to 10% new food and continue to add increasing numbers of the new food each day. Take about two weeks before completely transitioning. Cats are sensitive to change and sometimes a change in diet can cause some intestinal irregularities.

If you have an established cat or dog already present... you now have the opportunity to be creative in keeping the kitten’s food available to the kitten and not have it eaten by everyone else! We all love challenges...

TREATS

When I really want to praise a kitten or encourage a slow eater, I will mix in a jar of human baby meat food... such as the turkey or chicken with their regular food.  Your vet  should have Hill’s AD available which is very loved...  for a special treat   brown some ground chicken.  In general, kittens do not need a lot of variety in their diet and do best when fed consistently the same things.

There are new snack treats on the market. I highly recommend finding your kitten’s favorite food. Food is a primary motivator for training! You can use food as a reward when teaching to come, sit, fetch, etc.. Bengal cats are quick learners and food a big motivator!  The one I like right now is the product called Halo Liv-A-Littles  http://wholesalesupplementstore.com/liv-a-littles-chicken-treats.html   This is an exceptionally well liked treat!  Comes in handy when training them.

LITTER AND LITTER BOXES

I use an open litter box with a “kick plate” around the edge. There is about 1 inch of clay litter in the boxes. The kittens are litter trained when they leave here... to make sure you do not have any problems I recommend the following.  If using a closed litter box, be sure to make another opening at the other end... for "escape".   I do not recommend closed boxes as they trap in odor and if you have other animals, can trap in the one using the box.   Littermaids, the automatic ones, make ideal Bengal cat toys... they love to jump in them and watch the little scraper go back and forth! 

bulletPrevention is  key.   Watch introductory behavior to make sure kitten is successful in using the litter box.  
bulletEarly spay and neuter is recommended by some feline behaviorist to “eliminate the elimination disorder”. Since beginning this in 1997 we have had nothing but positive results in health, behavior and in rapid recovery time.
bulletHave plenty of litter pans available in easily accessed areas that are quiet and the cat will not be alarmed when in the litter box. (Such as a drier alarm sounding or an overhead item falling on them.)  
bulletThe rule of thumb  is one more litter pan available than the number of cats living in the home.  Remember it is better to start out with more when the kitten is young and reduce the number of boxes as the kitten matures. 
bulletAny changes in position of the pan should be done slowly.   You can change litter pan places, but do so at increments of two feet a day until the litter box that is moving, joins the stationary one. 
bulletThe main idea with litter pans is to prevent incorrect behavior. Your kitten comes to you knowing to use the litter pan... all we have to do is understand this natural behavior and support it.
bulletI use a clay litter.   I recommend to continue on clay until the kitten is older... any change in litter is done gradually, because TEXTURE is important to cats.
 
Draw a room arrangement of your house and possible places for the litter box.  This is important to think through.  Think in terms of more boxes initially, then gradually move the litter boxes to where you permanently want them.  

BASIC THINGS TO HAVE ON HAND

bulletAs training aids I recommend squirt guns... can be really fun for the family... but not always practical... in fact some Bengal cats seem to enjoy getting squirted.   I send your kitten home with you with a squirt gun and special treat... for positive reinforcement as well.  
bulletThe compressed air dusters used for dusting photo equipment, computers, fax machines, etc.. makes a sound of a cat hissing. This is an excellent correction to use.
bulletClimbing trees. Bengal cats love to climb high.... nothing like a leopard in a tree. Find sturdy, sisal rope wrapped climbing poles and shelves for relaxation. A special place is in front of the window. There are some really beautiful climbing trees available. 

http://www.armarkat.com  several clients recommend this site! 

bulletThere are now spray scents that are excellent for modification:   catnip sprayed on areas to attract;  Boundary, Bitter Apple, Bitter Lime, etc. on areas to keep them off.   
bulletScratching posts. Cats tend to scratch close to where they sleep... combing the art of relaxation with their yoga stretches and territorial marking! So a good place for that tall scratching post is next to their favorite sleeping place.  Also, a product I am trying out is called No Scratch.  A pump spray for furniture to prevent the natural clawing... it seems to work well, but needs to be redone every week or so.  Does not have an unpleasant odor.  
bulletLots of toys of all kinds: fishing pole toys, plastic straws, catnip mice, fur mice, feathers (unless you have pet birds), circle ball toys with scratching center, card board boxes, sacks, rolls of paper, anything you are interested in... Bengal cats are very interactive. Teach yours to fetch!

Preparing for the:   INTRODUCTION TO NEW HOME

bulletReceiving blanket

Smell seems to be a factor in getting everyone to accept each other... so  neutralizing the smell of the “new” by making everyone smell alike goes a long way in adjusting. The new kitten arrives with a “blanket” that smells like the kitten’s home and family. This serves as a security blanket and as a way of transferring odors. The last week before the kitten arrives, place a terry cloth towel or other absorbent material in an area that your resident animals visit. When picking up the kitten from my home or the airport, bring this with you, place it in the carrier and wipe the new kitten with it... when you arrive home take the kitten’s receiving blanket and wipe the resident cats and animals with it. This will transfer the odors and help everyone smell appropriately.

bulletSafe room

Create a safe room for the kitten where litter box, feed, and toys are present. Make the room comfortable and have it large enough for you to be able to visit with special toys and treats. This room will allow everyone to sniff under the door and get used to each other’s smells. It is a good idea to isolate a new animal for up to two to three weeks while everyone is adjusting and getting to know each other. This also helps control of disease that may be passed from one animal to another.

bulletCarrier

Sometimes it is helpful to put one of the animals in a carrier in a room and allow the others to wander around the carrier getting to know the new kitten. This process can work well. Place the new cat in the carrier at first and then reverse the process... this allows for exploring and smelling in a safe area.

bulletPlay Time

This is fun! Bring out the feather toy or the fishing pole and really keep everyone busy. Just like people meeting each other for the first time a toy that both find very interesting helps to ease the tension and allows everyone to play and get to know each other in a safe way.

Be sure to take your time. Remember that you are looking at lifelong relationships and though it seems you want everything to work out as quickly as possible... it is a good idea to watch and observe, let the animals set the pace for what is comfortable for them. Observe. Play. Pay special attention. It is not unusual for the introductory process to take about two weeks.

bulletKittens under 6 months of age are readily accepted into multi cat households.

BRINGING THE NEW KITTEN HOME

Why am I insistent that the new kitten be isolated for a period of two weeks?

We all want to automatically walk in the door with our newest kitten and immediately introduce one and all to each other, but this is not advisable. Your new kitten is in excellent health, all the shots given, your current cats are all inoculated and in excellent health... so what possible harm can there be? Each environment carries its own little flora and fauna of the infectious disease world... and even though we cannot see any problems, moving to a new home away from siblings and known environment can sometimes be too much stress for the kitten. It is not common but also not unusual for a kitten to react to stress by having loose stools and upper respiratory infections. It is also not out of the ordinary for the resident cat to find the new kid a bit stressful... so the best advice is to allow a period of time to elapse that would allow any latent infections to come to the surface rather than expose the cats to possible infectious disease.

For a corollary think of a day care center and the spreading of germs... cats are much the same. In the two week period the cats are exposed to each other, under the doorways, by smell , and sound they gradually get to know that there are other cats . This allows for a smooth transition.

Do I insist that this be what you do?    I understand the temptation to not wait the recommended amount of time... but my guarantee of health is based on the isolation for two weeks, vet exam for health, and your confidence that everyone is in good health.

CATALOGS

bulletDoctors Foster and Smith 1-800-826-7206
bulletThe Dog’s Outfitter 1-800-367-3647
bulletJeffers 1-800-533-3377
bulletMail Order Pet Shop 1-800-366-7387
bulletRC Steele 1-800-872-3773
bulletRevival 1-800-786-4751
bulletUPCO’S 1-800-233-9696

Another toy source is cat shows. There are often vendors with creative toys at reasonable prices. This is also a good source for some of those climbing toys.

VET VISIT

I ask that this be done within the first seven days unless we have made other arrangements and it is in writing.   The main reason is your assurance  of the kitten/cat's health and if there is anything wrong that we did not pick up here.   Kittens in new homes often have changes that cause stress, stress tends to act on them as it does on us... so err on the side of caution and REMEMBER have your vet call mine with ANY questions.

The following are what the kittens have had:  A note here.  Vaccinations have become more controversial of late.  The idea of vaccines is simply to create an immune system that can handle exposure to disease.   So, I follow my veterinarian's advice and give the following... your veterinarian may be different, so speak to them about what they are doing and let me know. 

bulletFort Dodge FPL CVR killed vaccine  (given at:  11 weeks, and 14 weeks) 
bulletFeLV Rhone Mecieux leucat killed vaccine.   The FeLV vaccine has been somewhat controversial.   I have considered many factors, and currently give the first vaccine after testing a kitten in the litter.  My cattery is FeLV negative with all adults tested and vaccinated annually. 
bulletIMREAB 3 killed virus.  RABIES check with your state regulations on age.  I am often asked if it is necessary to give a rabies vaccine... and my answer is from the point of view of liability and it is yes.   If your kitten should happen to break the skin of a visitor it is important to have proof of vaccination.   (given according to state law) 

What my veterinarian checks for:

bulletHeart.  We occasionally have heart murmurs.  These have been developmental in nature, meaning that the kitten simply outgrows these are they mature.  This is noted IF there is a heart murmur found. 
bulletTemperature.  Temperature is important to check.  It is often the first sign of any infection or illness and is noted in the record you receive.  Normal cat temperatures are anything around 99 - 103.  Depending on stress, etc. they can vary greatly.  
bulletWeight.  I keep a weight chart on each kitten and we track the rate of growth so there is a comparison with the litter and with other litters.  Any deviation from the norm is noted.
bulletCataracts.  There have been some "juvenile cataracts" found and these too are noted if they are found.  They are not visible to our eye, but through a special scope the vet checks these out.  
bulletKnees and joints.  Checked to see if there are any abnormalities. 
bulletStool check of the litter.  (sometimes it is very hard to find who did what in the litter box :)) 

If all is well with a kitten.  It is simply not written up, sometimes you will see the PE WNL on the sheet ... meaning Physical Exam, Within Normal Limits.   The main things to note are given to you.  Weight, temperature, vaccine date and when the next vaccines are due. 

This  chart  will arrive with your kitten.  Take this to the veterinarian with you.  A post card is attached to the form for your veterinarian to fill out and send to me at the time of the first seven day health visit this post card activates the guarantee.

DATE

FPL CVR

FELV

RABIES

OTHER

date seen by veterinarian

standard   

 see the note on this above

according to age

here is where vet's notations appear

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Take this record with you when your veterinarian sees the kitten. The kitten must be fully immunized and often, due to age, has not received all the series. This record will allow your veterinarian to clearly see what needs to be given. 

Attached to this record is a self addressed stamped post card that MUST be sent to me to keep your health guarantee.   This post card merely shows the kitten was seen, the date it was seen, who your vet is and what was found.  

VACCINES DUE:

The dates are noted for you. 

MY HEALTH GUARANTEE IS BASED ON A MINIMAL TWO WEEK ISOLATION PERIOD AND YOUR VETERINARIAN’S APPROVAL OF THE KITTEN’S HEALTH.   YOUR VET  HAS TO CALL MINE WITH ANY AND ALL QUESTIONS/COMMENTS.   614-436-9922 

 

Note:  Feline Corona virus (FCoV).  The test for FCoV looks for  an exposure to a benign virus that has produced antibodies.   While up to 85% of all cats are estimated to have been exposed to Feline Corona virus (thus the test is positive for antibodies), it is understood that the corona virus mutates into Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) which is fatal, in only 1-5% of the positive cats for Corona virus.  The lack of a specific test and the inability to accurately diagnose FIP without an autopsy, leaves the breeder, the owner,  and the veterinarian with little to go on.   Understand.  The presence of a corona titer is not indicative of FIP, the mutation takes place in the individual cat and is not understood to be "transferable from one cat to another."   While corona viruses are shared, FIP is not something that is "caught."

My approach to cat breeding is to be as cutting edge with what is available as possible and to offer to you the best guarantees that I can.    Because of this, I can guarantee that I do everything possible to minimize exposure to Corona virus, make sure that there is little stress in the life of the kittens and cats,  select only strong, healthy breeding cats for my program and, if one should become ill from the virus, replace the kitten as soon as possible.  Even in sterile, clinical environments where extensive testing is done, Corona virus has been found after specifically selecting against it!  Because of the nature of the virus,  I cannot guarantee that any Akerrs  cats or kittens will not have Corona virus exposure but I will guarantee that I do all I can to minimize any and all health issues and respond appropriately should any problem occur. 

At this time I cannot recommend the FIP vaccines,  you must work this out with your veterinarian.   Most veterinarians and breeders do not  check for Corona virus titers because they are so ambiguous and can give both false positives and negatives.    The vaccine is relatively new and thus not tested over years.  This leaves us in a quandary... one of those situations where the more you know, the more you know you do not know.... 

I became increasingly aware of the need for more information through an email list  I co-moderated, this is a support list that advises on cattery management and with issues concerning Feline Infectious Peritonitis.   The more we understand the more effective we can be.   Because this is a virus that typically effects the young, under one year of age or the very old... (known as an opportunistic virus)  I searched out some options.    Thus,  the insurance option is offered to you.   See below:

Final note:

It is my goal to make sure you have the healthiest, well socialized and beautiful animal as possible.  I want to enhance your life... please know that you can ask me any questions and that your vet can contact mine for phone consultation.

Stay in touch! 

Libbie Kerr

page was last edited on: 08/10/2009
©Libbie Kerr 1989-2006
libbiekerr@akerrsbengals.com 

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TELEPHONE  740-548-6586
fax 740-548-5397
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